In and out of Kabul Afghanistan 2005-2012

Aug 20, 2006


On the streets

One pane of glass away

Memorial atop

Kohi Khwaja Razaq
Behind Kabul Education University

Kabul ...
Giant's eye view

Remembering

Well we made it thru both Afghanistan Independence Day (18Aug) and the 29th anniversary of the death of Elvis (16Aug). Next year may not be so quiet – with the much anticipated launch of Adam Muskiewicz’s The Truth about Elvis …

http://www.elviswanted.com/preview.html

And the 28th anniversary of the death of Ahmad Zahir – the Elvis of Afghanistan – is just around the corner. Zahir – renegade son of former prime Minster Mohamed Zahir – was the darling of central Asia fusion until his death September 1978. The fatal car crash was rumoured to have been orchestrated by Hafizullah Amin, a powerful figure in Afghanistan's ruling communist party, to end his daughter's flirtation with the singer.

A million people attended the funeral.

Aug 18, 2006

Tuned!!

A great week of musical discovery. Acquired a rebab - 3 plucked and 15 resonating strings.

To be confused with the Indonesian "rebab" - 2 bowed strings. An internet search reveals no information on the former.

For a great read check out Allan Pollack's ...

http://www.icce.rug.nl/~soundscapes/DATABASES/AWP/awp-notes_on.shtml

a comprehensive and vibrant dissection of the music of the Beatles. Will satisfy your thirst for culture, history and pantonics. Not to mention solve a few problems for amateur musicians who love to cover.

suspended notes


the rabob maker

fixing the bridge

Aug 12, 2006

The wall

We did “the wall”. At five AM we boarded the International School bus – picnic in the air despite the early hour. At six thirty we were on top of Sher Darwaza - enjoying the sunrise 400 metres above Kabul.

Centuries ago two powerful brothers decided to parcel up the city - agreed to disagree over some family matter – and constructed this immense barrier of stone dividing some very inhospitable mountainside. More than 200 labourers are rumoured to be buried in “the wall” - condemned for spilling the mud or stone they were transporting up the steep slopes.

I fear landmines – having been well indoctrinated about “keeping to the well trod path”. There are still two live mines for each of the Afghanistan's 30 million citizens. I also confront vertigo – always an issue for me on steep ground. Eyes on the track Peter – but occasionally I stop, ensure solid footing, and gaze out over the city. Three point five million and growing rapidly – testimony to both the entrepreneurial confidence of the wealthy, and the failure to develop livelihood opportunities outside of Kabul.

Wish me luck. Today I’m shopping for a rebob – the ubiquitous central Asian string instrument renowned for its sharp rapid melodies and energetic complement to the tabla. Everywhere I’ve lived music has proven a reliable door into local culture and society. And, like dressing “comme mujihadeen”, pickin with some of the locals may help make me less conspicuous – we are secure inversely proportional to our visibility.

Aug 11, 2006


16 years of age ...

in total

Stone faced
Runny breakfast

Do we need help?

We humans need to get into the habit of asking for help. Not begging – but pleading ignorance. “What is going on?” or “I cannot figure this out” is often where we are at, always very instructive, and infrequently voiced.

It expedites our learning – from a young age we can benefit immensely from identifying what we want to know but don’t - and then asking for it.

As maturity approaches it becomes a critical community development tool – personalizing stories to better understand motivations.

It prepares us for old age – when our needs really do increase and the quality of life we can have depends very much on adapting to those new needs – not fighting them.

Do we need help with this?

Aug 10, 2006


laundry day

choose your mate
Kabul Bucket and Dress
currency exchange services available everywhere


bus graveyard


(They can't get no) satisfaction

Some people are insatiable, as the following excerpt from todays security report highlites ...

"Incident - Murder: 07 Aug, Helmand Province, Musa Qala District - The Taliban accused an elderly woman and a thirteen year old boy of spying for the government and NATO forces. After parading them through the village to be an example to other villagers, they were taken to a public place and hanged.

Comment: Amid waging a war on NATO and Government forces, the Taliban does not seem to have lost their appetite for the public execution of women and children."